Les Cayes

This past week I had the privilege of going to Les Cayes. If you are not familiar with this area- go look it up. It is countryside- like no electricity, donkeys everywhere, cleaner air, and the most amazing beaches. Les Cayes, is a town and seaport in southwestern Haiti, with a population of approximately 45,904 people. At the end of Les Cayes is a small place called Port Salut. Holly has wanted to go here, and we now had the opportunity. And across the island is a little place called Ile A Vache- which is rated 57^th most beautiful beach from CNN.

We left Monday morning around 8:45. Went to the airport and picked up a small (9 person) American group who were going to Les Cayes as well- except they are a short term team and working at an O for the week. Les Cayes is about 3 hours from Port Au Prince. I spent the drive there with my head buried in my new book that I can’t seem to get enough of, but there was also a time of prayer and lots of emotions. If you have ever been to Haiti then you know about the driving and lack of traffic laws. I have been super shocked to not have witnessed any wrecks, except for now- when we passed 2 really bad ones. One of the wrecks involving the death of a child. There is a point in the book I am reading where Francis Chan talks about our life being so short, and it was ironic that I was reading this very section as we passed the body covered and lying on the payment. For most of the remaining drive I sat and tried to understand why, but I know there is a bigger plan, and over these past 3 months I have learned to let the worry go, and know He is always in control.

 We arrived late afternoon, dropped off the team, and then went to a restaurant on the beach- Jelly Beach. Our diver, Robert, is good friends with our friends Mitch and Ducans so luckily for us we had transportation and they took us to chill for the evening with them on the beach. We were exhausted, but it was so wonderful to see the beach. It wasn’t as clean as I was hoping for, and I was pretty turned off after seeing a few “dirty” things, but none the less- it was the beach. We ate, walked around a bit, and then heading to the hotel. Now before you all get excited- let me give you some information about this hotel. We arrived around 9:30pm (remember no electricity for most of the town) so it was extremely dark, not much lighting, and to be honest it looked sketch. But I trusted our Haitians buddies and went with it. We walked in our room, which thankfully had a light (pink color!) and started to get settled. It was at this moment that I knew I was super spoiled living in the guesthouse. I officially took my first bucket shower :) and with our fan on, Holly and I slowly fell asleep. It was an eventful day, but I had no idea this was the beginning on the most “Haitian”  I would experience.

I didn’t sleep much- not used to sharing a bed with my roomie- Holly- and I think I had a lot on my mind. Thankfully- the rooster started his shift at approximately 5am, so by 5:30 everyone was awake. And it was raining. After walking (tap-tap) to breakfast, Mitch’s cousin picked us up and we headed back to the hotel to grab our things and head to Port Salut.

Port Salut is a coastal town in the Sud Department of Haiti and the hometown of Haiti's deposed president, Jean-Bertrand Artistide who was born there in 1953 and the Prime Minister Jean-Marie Cherestal. Port-Salut is a popular destination for local Haitians as well as tourists to a certain degree seeking relaxation and tranquility due to the beautiful beaches that the town is surrounded by. The air is amazingly clean and fresh and the scenery is amazing. We arrived around 1:30 in the afternoon and spent the afternoon in the ocean, eating delicious fresh seafood, and soaking up the rays. We arrived back to the hotel around 9pm, and bucket bathed :) and crashed.

Again- rooster shift change at 5 am, and we were up and at it. We had planned to go to visit Mitch’s family Wednesday but we got back late Tuesday and with no transportation, it didn’t happen. We instead decided to tag along with Elizabeth and her group. She is an American who brings teams in to work and then at the end of the week she takes them to see the beauty that Haiti really is- something I am so grateful for. Haiti is an absolutely amazing Caribbean Island, and it is so much more than sick hungry orphans. Since we woke again to rain, we waited a bit before departing. Elizabeth and her team already left, so we were left to sort of wing it. This is the part of the trip that gets interesting- really interesting.

So lets begin from the beginning- we took a tap tap from the hotel to the downtown area, walked in the supermarket to exchange some American money for goudes, then hoped on a moto to the port to catch the boat over to Ile A Vache. When we went to the port Monday- we (Holly and I) were under the impression we would be taking an actual boat- like a boat you and I are both thinking about. Well, this was not the case. Our moto driver dropped us off on the other side- the side where all the Haitians get on a boat to ride over. Holly, Ducans, and I stood there while Mitch worked out the details. We would be taking a small boat over to the other side- ok- that works. Well…. I am not sure any of knew what this meant. The four of us got in this boat along with 30 other people. Holly and I being the only white people.  The boat was about the size of a canoe with a motor. We were packed in like sardines- four to a row. I literally sat there and thought this is what it was like on the Titanic before it sank!- something I really didn’t want to be thinking, especially in a boat with this many people, many of which do not swim. Finally, after sitting there packing in more and more people we set sail. An hour into the boat ride, my butt was completely numb, left foot feeling was long gone, and my anxiety was creeping in. 10 more minutes passed, 20 minutes passed, and then finally an hour and a half later we arrived. I really wish I could have documented this day with video and pictures, because it would give a much better presentation of the day we had, but that was not possible, so bear with me as I try to describe my emotions, scenery, and thoughts. 

We stepped off the boat into a whole other world. I was told that at some point during my stay I will grow frustrated with the touching, lack of personal space, and being whistled at- well my day hit. I just wanted to walk off the boat and figure out how to get back to the other side of Ile A Vache- where Elizabeth and her team were, because they were obviously not here. I was being a complete American Snob. I was tired, over the boat ride, hot, thirsty, and over the constant in your face Haitians. Mitch got us a few moto drivers and we started off to the other side- but didn’t get very far due to a flat tire. Instead of hoping on a different driver- we waited for ours since he was promised the funds. About half way there we wrecked- nothing too serious, and then we encounted a manifestation (protesting). I did not like this at all, and this was the first time in my 10 weeks I felt unsafe. Me, Mitch, Holly, Ducans, and the 2 moto drivers were covered with protesting Haitians in the middle of nowhere with nowhere to go. They were chanting, swarming us, and acting out. At this point in the trip- I was emotionless. The boat ride was less than desirable, I was so thirsty my mouth felt like sandpaper, and my anxiety levels were way out of comfort levels. I sat there with a “get the hell out of my way” look on my face and prayed quietly to myself. After about 10 minutes, one of the protesting Haitians moved out of the way and our moto driver took off, but only to be stopped by a lady chanting something. After another few minutes we were finally free. Another 10 minutes later we arrived at a place called Port Morgan. And they had some water- thank heavens. This place was super quiet, beautiful views, and had a wonderful feel to it. However, Elizabeth and her team were at the other beach- so back on the moto’s and off we went. I had something in the pit of my stomach about my driver and I totally did not want to be on the back anymore. And due to the horrible driving conditions we walked most of the time anyways. Well against better judgment I got back on, and about 3 minutes into the ride, he wrecked again except this time my right leg sizzled on the burning hot muffler. Totally not fun nor did it feel good, and after that I walked the rest of the way. I know it wasn’t his fault, but at the time I was not a happy camper and thankfully he could not understand English because I know my words would have hurt his feelings. Part of this frustration was because I didn’t bring ANY medical stuff with me, and knew I should have. 

I was ecstatic when we finally saw the water, beach, and Mitch met up with Elizabeth. FINALLY- the madness was over and we were staying put for the day. The rest of the day was spent in the water (saltwater does a wonder for burns), meeting new people, and enjoying the sun and scenery. So 5 pm hits, and we shower off…… and miss the boat back to Les Cayes. Lovely- :( there has to be another one right….. yeah not so much unless you want to pay a ridiculous amount. So we sat, and sat, and then finally were able to get in touch with someone who would take us back for a reasonable price, and we left the island. The sunset was a pretty sight to watch as we trucked across the ocean. We arrived back in Les Cayes, and unfortunately since it was so late, no tap tap’s were running, so it was moto time :( Thankfully- this one was a good driver, and we made it safe and sound.

Now- we had to figure out how we were going to get back to Port Au Prince. Robert, our diver from Port Au Prince to Les Cayes, popped in my head and to our surprise he was about to make the trip back so at 10:30pm we loaded up and hit the road back.

3:00 am we arrived back to the guesthouse, and I have never been so excited to see this home. I was wide awake, so I read and then just started laughing at the day. A day that will go down in the books, and one that in a few years we will all look back on and smile.

The beaches were beautiful and I am so thankful to have been given the opportunity to experience this. It was the perfect ending to this amazing journey I have been on. I was able to be still, have time to think and process, and smile at how amazing our Creator is and the life He is providing for me. I am extremely blessed in all aspects.

His Love Never Fails